Day 2 of our 2020 Michigan Road Trip we drove about 3 hours from Holland, MI (click here for that post) up to Sleeping Bear Dunes. We visited Sleeping Bear Dunes because all the pictures I saw of it were so beautiful, we’d never seen anything like it before – also, our boys love the sand so I knew we had to make fit in some sand play. In the end, our family loved Sleeping Bear Dunes so much that we came back the next year in 2021, so this post is a combination of what we did on both trips!

About Sleeping Bear Dunes, Michigan

Sleeping Bear Dunes is about 35 miles of Lake Michigan coastline in northwest Michigan. In 2011 it was voted the “Most Beautiful Place in America” on ABC’s Good Morning America. The park and surrounding towns are full of amazing nature, from huge sand dunes that drop off into turquoise waters, to forests and beaches. There’s lots of outdoor activities like hiking and beautiful viewpoints, the famous Dune Climb, and the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail of paved biking and walking trails between sites of interest.

What’s great about Sleeping Bear Dunes with little kids:

  • All the sand!
  • Lots of beach options.
  • A few short trail options.
  • A scenic drive (nice when you can’t hike much, annoying to get kids in and out of the car a lot)
  • Beautiful views and nature, such a unique place in God’s world

What’s difficult about Sleeping Bear Dunes with little kids:

  • All the sand! It gets everywhere.
  • Hiking in the sand is hard (at least for ours), even for a short hike.
  • Hiking in the sand when it’s hot is even harder.
  • Most hikes are over a mile.
  • Sites of interest are pretty spread out.

Where To Stay

Indigo Bluffs RV Site

On our big road trip with our campervan, we stayed at Indigo Bluffs RV site. It was a very nice campground, with lots of amenities, and is about 10 miles (20 minutes-ish) from Sleeping Bear Dunes. However, you can only reserve a campsite “type”, not the actual campsite you want, and we were placed in one of the worst spots. Our site was a sloped sandy spot with lots of roots, right between the bathrooms and a cabin, where the electric hookup spot forced us to be uncomfortably close to the cabin and its campfire. We were also right by a huge field with a doggy bag spots so, that’s always great to have dog poop around your little kids. Honestly, for the price ($52!) I would have expected better. I wish we’d gotten sites on the far side of the campground that back up to a huge horse field with beautiful morning sunshine.

Empire Lakeshore Inn

The next year when we went without the campervan, we stayed at The Empire Lakeshore Inn. This is a regular motel at the main crossroads in Empire that has been recently updated quite nicely – all new paint, flooring, and tasteful furniture, not dingy at all. I love that everything felt new and crisp. It was also a great location, right next to the Sleeping Bear Dunes Visitor Center, the Shipwreck Cafe, and within easy driving distance of the beach, the dunes, and some trailheads. The only downside was that it was a regular single hotel room, which is always harder to stay in when you have to share the room with 3 little kids that need to take naps and go to bed earlier than you want to.

Empire vs. Glen Arbor

If you are deciding whether to stay in Empire or Glen Arbor, here are some thoughts. Both towns have a beach right there, and have good food available. Empire is small, with only a few restaurants, a gas station market, and no coffee shop open early. Its beach is more like a regular lake beach with sand, playground, and it was very hot when we were there.  However, Empire is close to the lower Sleeping Bear activities such as the Visitors Center and the Empire Bluff Trail. On the other hand, Glen Arbor is a little bigger of a town with more restaurants to choose from, artsy stores, an actual market, lots of bed n breakfasts, and a coffee shop that is open early. The beach is more an upper peninsula style beach with lots of pebbles and less points of entry (the shoreline itself is public but many beachfront houses have private property signs posted). The lake is more turquoise here and very beautiful, a little cooler in weather when we were there. So there’s pros and cons to both!

What To Do With Little Kids at Sleeping Bear Dunes

Sleeping Bear Dunes Visitors Center

If you’re visiting Sleeping Bear Dunes, definitely stop at the Philip A. Hart Visitors Center first! Mostly because you need to buy a park pass to enter Sleeping Bear Dunes, and you can do that at the visitors center (or at the Dune Climb, Scenic Drive, or Homestead). The park pass costs $25 and take note the visitor center is only open 9-4! Second off, the visitor center has good info on the area, a little exhibit the boys liked, maps, and more. Also, Sleeping Bear Dunes is a National Park so you can get your passport stamped if you have one – if not you can still do the stamp on paper.

The Dunes Climb

Our boys LOVED the Dunes Climb! It’s about 5 mile north of Empire, right on the side of the road, the largest sandhill you’ve ever seen. You can actually hike all the way to Lake Michigan but it’s about 3.5 miles total through pure sand and takes 3-4 hours, so I wouldn’t recommend it with little kids. However, definitely walk as high up the hill as you can for a nice view of the inland and Glen Lake, then take time to sit and let the kids play in the sand, before you have a fun run all the way back down to the parking lot and restrooms. Don’t be worried, I saw all types of people going up that hill so just give it a try, even a little ways up gets you a nice view.

Our first visit there in 2020 our kids made it halfway up the big hill before claiming tired, at which point I showed them a bag of surprise sand toys, which gave the 4 year old the motivation he needed to get to the top while we carried the 2 year old. At the top we let them play with the toys for a long time – bringing those were key!

Our second visit there in 2021 we went at 9 am and there were not that many people, which was nice (by 10 am there were substantially more people arriving). This time my husband took the boys up the hill while I walked the trail with the stroller and sleeping baby. The Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail goes right by the Dunes Climb so I checked that out a bit.

For some advice on climbing the dunes, see the blog post Conquering the Dune Climb with Toddlers at Sleeping Bear Dunes by O the Places We Go!

The Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive

This is one of the highlights of the park and the first year we went in 2020 it was closed during the weekdays for construction! I was SO disappointed, especially since they didn’t even mention it at the visitors center. So part of the reason we came back in 2021 was just so we could do this drive. And it was worth it! This 8 mile drive is pleasant, mostly through forest, with some beautiful viewpoints and good little hikes. There are 11 stops but about 3 main ones; these are the ones we did.

#1 – Covered Bridge – we just drove through it.

#2 – Glen Lake Overlook – we didn’t stop, it wasn’t interesting to the kids.

#3 – The Dune Overlook – it was very cool to see this view AFTER doing the Dune Climb, because you can see Glen Lake, the Dune Climb parking lot, the top of the Dube Climb, lots of pathways to the lake, and some of the Cottonwood Trail.

#4 – The Cottonwood Trail – (note: you can stay parked at #3 at walk here easily), this trail is a 1 1/2 mile + trail that looked pretty easy, through the sand dunes and cottonwood trees. We went down it a bit but the boys were not into it, so we didn’t go far. It looked lovely though and if we’d had more time I would have pushed them to do it! For a great review of hiking this trail with kids, see this post from MyMichiganTrips.

Here’s a map if you’re interested:

#5-8 – were random stops by the forest, I don’t know what they were for!

#9 Lake Michigan Overlook – this is supposedly the most photographed stop, with a view of the dunes 450 feet above the lake! This is the very picturesque viewpoint you see everywhere online. It is a short walk out through the sand to the viewpoint. It was very cool, but very very windy while we were there and our kids literally cried from the sand hitting their faces and I had to hide them in my sweater. My husband and I loved it though! Definitely stop here!

 

 

#10 – Sleeping Bear Dune Overlook – view of the 2,000 year old dune based on the legend, supposedly another good view but we didn’t have time or the hankering in the wind, I guess it’s further past #9.

#11 – we did not do either, the baby fell asleep

For more pics and info about the Scenic Drive, check out these two blog posts I liked:

Hike Empire Bluff Trail

The Empire Bluff Trail is just south of Empire, about 3/4 mile (so 1.5 mi total) through forests with hills and stairs, to a dune view at the end that is totally worth it! Our 2 and 4 year old did fine, although I had to bribe them with gummy worms to keep them from whining (they got one at every marker). The boardwalk along the mountainside with turquoise water below, at the end, reminded me of Cinque Terre in Italy. We went early in the morning and there were only a few other people on the trail, but by the time we returned mid-morning the parking lot was full. There is a little outhouse there. For more pics see MyMichiganTrips’ blog post.

Most of the trail looked like this, though woods, with some hills:

The end of the trail is well worth it:

Hike Sleeping Bear Point at Glen Haven

On our first trip, after doing the visitors center and the dune climb, we finished by going to Sleeping Bear Point because it offered a different side of the dunes toward the north, and seemed full of options because we weren’t sure what to do yet: hike the full 2.8 mile loop, hike just to the lookout point, or hike to the beach – plus there was a portapotty in the parking lot. In the end we took the Sleeping Bear Point Trail to the beach, because the boys really wanted more sand play time. I would have liked to hike to the viewpoint, but it was HOT and I was pregnant. It was about .3 miles to the beach, first all uphill then all downhill, all through sand which was not fun, but the beach itself was beautiful, covered with fun rocks and gorgeous teal water. You can see both Manitou islands from this spot and we enjoyed playing in the sand and rocks with the beautiful view. If you’re not up for the walk, there are some beaches in Glen Arbor with equally beautiful rocks and views but without the hike.

The downhill part to the beach:

The beautiful water:

Lots of rock throwing:

The map of the trail:

If you decide to do the whole hike, I hear it has nice vistas and is less crowded than the other trails, BUT it’s mostly all sand so be warned and bring water. Also nearby is the Maritime Museum, which we did not stop at, but if you have kids that like boats, I definitely would. Websites say it has historic displays about the US Lifesaving Service, old rescue boats and equipment, and a boardwalk to the beach. However, one website said there’s a parking fee and limited open hours, so check ahead.

Empire Beach

Our second visit to Sleeping Bear Dunes we stayed in Empire and visited the beach there first thing, because that’s what the boys really wanted to do. The Empire Beach has a long beach area and two nice playgrounds with some views of the dunes from far away. There is also a little lake right nextdoor. The boys loved it, I thought it was pretty hot with little shade.

Beach at Glen Arbor

During our second trip we stopped at the beach in Glen Arbor for an hour before going to dinner at Cherry Republic. Google will direct you toward “Lake Street Beach and Boat Ramp” but it appears that most surrounding streets end in some beach access, so we parked at the end of S Manitou Blvd and entered the beach there. Although there are “private property” signs everywhere, some regulars told us that the signs are for the houses’ yards which go down to the waterline but waterline itself is public (or something like that) so technically it’s ok to be there. This beach was beautiful with great rocks and teal water, similar to Sleeping Bear Point.

Although we didn’t see much of Glen Arbor, what we did see was super cute, and I’d totally recommend leaving the kids on the beach with dad or someone while you take a little shopping walk down the main street!

Read The Legend Of Sleeping Bear Dunes

Before our big road trip, we read The Legend Of Sleeping Bear Dunes (affiliate link) to get the boys excited for the upcoming trip. If you are unfamiliar with the story, read a short version here. The book itself is rather long and sad, but our kids still liked it, and the illustrations are beautiful. Most important, it got them familiar with and excited for visiting Sleeping Bear Dunes! There are quite a few books by this author and illustrator all about Michigan legends, including one for Mackinac Island (affiliate link) which we also got on the Island and the boys enjoyed as well.

Map

Here’s a map courtesy of the U.S. National Park Service that nicely shows most of the areas I talked about, which I pointed out in yellow.

Where To Eat

Where To Eat In Empire

Joe’s Friendly Tavern – this is one of the only restaurants in Empire, but it was surprisingly good! We all liked our food – I had a Chicken Goddess Salad and the boys had corndogs which we rarely have at home.

Shipwreck Cafe – a breakfast and lunch spot, it has breakfast wraps and coffee 9-11, and after 11 it’s sandwiches, salads, drinks, chips and cookies, with a little indoor area and lots of picnic tables outside. Our kids loved this place because they put little sword toothpicks in the sandwiches (you can ask for extra).

Tiffany’s Cafe – a self proclaimed ice cream shop, they also have sandwiches and coffee, they’re very good but a very limited menu, and opens at 11 or 12

Unfortunately in Empire there were no early morning coffee shops.

Where To Eat In Glen Arbor

Cherry Public House – a fun ice cream ship/restaurant/store/brewery/winery with lots of outdoor seating and good food. We went for dinner and it we liked it a lot. It had a great atmosphere and you can buy some souvenir wine and jam to take home.

Leelanau Coffee Roasting Co. Cafe & Patio – the only early morning coffee shop around, to be honest the drinks were disappointing, but they had great pastries and a nice patio out back.

There are several other places to eat there but we did not visit them, so I have no other recommendations.

Runners Up

Here are some more things to do in Sleeping Bear that we didn’t make it to, but sounded interesting!

  • Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail – a 20+ miles mostly paved bike trail along the Sleeping Bear lakeshore and sites of interest. A lot more info can be found here.
  • These lesser known areas of Sleeping Bear Dunes
  • Empire Bluff Trail (we did do this) – but at sunset!
  • North Bar Lake – just north of Empire, right on Lake Michigan, that is small enough it’s warm and perfect for kids, I read
  • Good Harbor Bay Beach – east a bit of Glen Arbor, supposed to be a nice sandy beach with beautiful views of Lake Michigan
  • Pyramid Point Trail and Viewpoint – even further east, 2.5 miles, supposed to have excellent views
  • Things to see between Holland and Sleeping Bear – check out these suggestions from a trip advisor forum – including drive M-22 from Manistee to the Dunes

And here are some blog posts for even more inspiration about what to do in Sleeping Bear:

Itineraries

Since I listed things earlier by activities, here are two itineraries of exactly what we did when we visited, to give you an idea of the amount of activities we fit in.

2020 (with a 2 year old, 4 year old, and 6 months pregnant)

1 Day in Sleeping Bear Dunes

  • Drive from Holland to Sleeping Bear Dunes (3+ hours)
  • Lunch stop in Manistee (at 2 hours) – sand play and picnic lunch at Fifth Ave Beach and Lighthouse, with bathrooms and free parking, close off of 31
  • Naps in the car the rest of the way to Sleeping Bear
  • Visitors center in Empire
  • Attempt Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive but it was closed
  • The Dune Climb
  • Sleeping Bear Point Hike and Beach at Glen Haven
  • Back to camp site for dinner and bed

2021 (with a 3 year old, 4 year old, and 7 month old)

2 Nights in Sleeping Bear Dunes

Day 1

  • Drive from Mackinaw Island (St. Ignace) to Sleeping Bear Dunes (3 hours)
  • Picnic lunch break on the way
  • Check into hotel
  • Empire Beach for sand play
  • Joe’s Friendly Tavern for dinner

Day 2

  • 8am Leelanau Coffee Roasting – we started in Glen Arbor because it had an early morning coffee shop; this turned out well because then we just worked our way north to south through Sleeping Bear back toward Empire where we stayed
  • 9am The Dune Climb
  • 10am? Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive – stops #3, 4, 9
  • Lunch at the Shipwreck Cafe in Empire
  • Naps at the hotel
  • Glen Arbor Beach
  • Cherry Public House in Glen Arbor for dinner

Day 3

  • 9am Empire Bluff Trail
  • 11am Tiffany’s for lunch, ice cream
  • Drive to Grand Rapids (3 hours)

Conclusion

I hope you found all that helpful! We loved Sleeping Bear so much we went two years in a row and this became a super long post!

The next day we drove from Sleeping Bear Dunes to Mackinaw City via the Scenic Route 31 and M-119!